St. Paul Cape Cod Dormer Addition

A remodel is underway. Take a look inside.

Follow along as we build a shed dormer addition along the upper level of this St. Paul Cape Cod.

Rough-Ins & Insulation

Rough-Ins Add Functionality from Bathroom Plumbing to Lighting

For most remodels, changes like moving sink locations or even adding all-new rooms mean that new electrical, plumbing, and mechanical/HVAC changes are needed. Right after framing, we adjust and add new internal systems to a home that change or enhance the functionality of the space during the rough-in process.  For this dormer addition to be useful, we would need to rough-in new lighting as well as add all new plumbing and heating/cooling solutions for the upper level. While plumbing lines, new cans, and HVAC get roughed-in, the actual fixtures are installed much later.

Although the entire upper level needed new electrical rough-ins, our crew was able to complete the process within only 2/3 days. Here you'll see new outlets being placed along the bottom of the living room wall just above where the future baseboard will sit.

Here’s a Breakdown of the Rough-Ins Needed:

Plumbing – 2 days :

  • We opened up the main plumbing stack on the main level to extend a pipe for the upper bath.
  • Our crew roughed-in the toilet and sink drain, requiring us to open & patch the floor.
  • Plumbing lines are extended to the shower area with a premade shower pan.

Electrical – 2/3 days:

  • Our team wired the entire upper level for all new switches, outlets, recessed cans, & decorative fixtures

This return was previously within an existing wall but needed to be moved based on the new floor plan. We typically like to place them near walls and outside of areas that could be covered by large furniture or rugs. However, the location is also dependent on how the joists below are running.

HVAC – 1 day now, 2 days later:

  • Our techs installed an exhaust fan in the new shared bath, an important element in mitigating stale air and odors.
  • One supply in the middle of the living room floor was moved to the secondary bedroom, so that it wouldn’t get covered by a rug.
  • 3 mini splits are installed for additional temperature control. Mini splits are not connected to any central cooling/heating unit and are instead equipped with their own fan and evaporator unit.
  • We moved an awkwardly placed vent in the living room that was near the new skylights.
  • We also prepped for new electric baseboard heaters in each bedroom.
  • The bathroom floor will eventually get new in floor heat, which we’ll talk through during tile install.

Temperature Control in an Attic Calls for Serious Insulation

Any new exterior walls are always insulated with spray foam because of the material’s ability to seep into crevices and block heat loss and gain. Insulation on a second floor is exceptionally important, and since we’re using the “hot roof” technique in this home, we spray-foamed the roof deck and ceiling to completely envelope the upper level. The batt insulation we tucked into interior walls, especially within the bathroom, as it helps with sound dampening from room to room. Our crew completed all the insulation needs within 4 days.

For new exterior walls, we always use spray foam to insulate. Spray foam provides a unique advantage compared to other products because the expanding foam easily fills small cracks and crevices.

Pink batt insulation is a fiberglass product that we often use for interior applications like this new bathroom, where it also helps to dampen sound transmittance to other rooms.

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